Julian: Reclaiming your Power through Color and Print
As a black cisgender gay man, for many years growing up I shied away from color because I didn’t want to draw attention to myself. With that attention usually came uncomfortable questions that I wasn’t ready to answer for the world or for myself. Staying in neutrals meant staying invisible and sometimes that is what a person needs, but it wasn’t really me and it didn't make me happy.
18 year old Julian headed to senior prom in a black tuxedo with a silver vest.
I have always loved clothing and the idea of making clothes. I remember my favorite childhood movie always being Disney’s Cinderella. Not for the actual princess story but because of the making of the pink dress by the mice and birds. Every time that scene would come on my face would light up (still does to this day). I loved the idea of garment construction and have always been drawn to bright and bold colors. Color and print are what make my heart smile! Sadly, in the western world bright bold colors are not seen as “manly” or masculine so I tried to stay with the norm even though I felt part of myself slowly diminish inside.
When I came into myself as an 18-year-old and came out to the world as a gay man I came back into my love of color. I remember I started to shop by what caught my eye and usually it’s bright color or print. Even now as a sewist I do the same. I find that color makes me feel confident and powerful! It makes my day job just more manageable and enjoyable knowing that I love how I am entering the world. I wanted to give you a few tips for picking fabrics, especially for shirts (my specialty) when out shopping.
Beware quilting cottons for shirts
I think we have all fallen for the elusive prints and colors found in a lot of quilting cottons. I remember when I first started sewing that is where my eye automatically went to, thinking that all fabrics act the same. As I learned about fabrics, I learned how different fabrics behave and drape, and because of that quilting cotton is not always the answer.
Black, white, and gold geometric quilting cotton cut into left shirt front with a pocket.
Quilting cotton is usually classified as a midweight plain weave cotton. Many of the shirts made with quilting cottons never wear the way I planned. After a few washes their colors fade and overall, they no longer have the crispness I desire. Since making this discovery, I have moved to making my button up shirts out of lawns, oxfords, and shirting (lightweight) fabrics that offer a crispness that drapes on the body a bit better. Now there are some styles that work with quilting cottons, especially those garments with a looser, more casual fit. If you are thinking of a more formal button up, though, consider a different fabric.
One way I infuse my wardrobe with the bright bold prints that I love is to use Ankara wax prints. Sometimes called Dutch Wax print, the history of a fabric style synonymous with the continent of Africa is rather fascinating. It was originally made as an export to the Polynesian islands where the Dutch felt it would be popular, as it mimicked batik. When it didn’t sell well there it found its home in Africa where many tribes and communities fell in love with its bright bold color. Straight out of the pack (it usually comes in 6-yard cuts) it has a very crisp hand due to its wax coating. This can be washed off where it then takes on the qualities of a nice quality cotton, but you can use that waxy crispness to your advantage if you are planning to make a dry clean only garment.
African Wax print fabric with a light blue and maroon sun ray pattern.
Be willing to be daring mixing prints and colors
Far too often when I post my creations, I get comments about people never being able to pull off such colors or prints. The first thing that I think about is why put limits on yourself???? Wearing color is part of my selfcare; I literally feel depressed when I have gone days without it. I think after trying to live under other rules, I have come to a place that I want to live by what works for me, and color and print is a major part of that, similar to art.
Neon graffiti print shirt with pattern envelope.
There is no need to fear color ever! Even if you have to baby step the process by starting with accessories. I remember there was a time when I had to make a solid color shirt (I don't do this often) I started to make sure it had my secrets in it that made it feel like me. This could be one fun color button, or one button sewn on in a bright color thread. One thing I always do is use different color bias tape to hem my shirts. It's a fun secret to infuse color and when I think about it it always makes me smile.
When all else fails make your own
Color blocked abstract animal print shirt with pink, blue, grey, and black-and-white sections.
I think we have all had that moment when we had an image in our head, but the fabrics we find are just not fulfilling the vision. Sometimes you must take matters into your own hands and create it yourself. This could mean a digital printed fabric, this could mean painting or dying fabric on your own; or it could simply mean combining prints and colors to get the look you want.
Digital print fabric of Martin Luther King Jr. cut into a shirt back piece.
I love to combine different colors and prints to color block to get the design I want. An example of this is my latest pride shirt. I took two different stripes and just started playing with the different directions I could use them in. Another example is using shirts that already have different panels built into the patterns. Things such as princess seams and two-piece sleeves are a great way to infuse different colors or patterns.
Go with what makes you smile
Julian wearing a rainbow striped shirt made for Pride Month.
In all my garment making I usually have one rule that guides all my work. Does it make me happy and smile? I think for far too long we all have tried to fit into other boxes, and I exclusively speak for myself when I say this, BUT I'M TIRED! If we've learned anything from 2020, it's that we really need to practice self-care. So that means I try to make sure I have a reason to smile daily. One way I do that is working with great fabrics and bright colors, it revives me daily when I am living in a mostly black and gray world. I am making up for that lost time when I squashed the desires of my younger self trying to fit in, and it feels great.
Julian wearing a rainbow crepe tunic with large gold buttons.
As creatives one of our greatest powers is that we can create things from raw materials. We literally have the power to create whatever we want, so with this in mind I create everything I want. In my mind fabrics and patterns can’t be gendered, have no age, and are for anybody. As I cisgender man, if I decide to make myself a beautiful ballgown it becomes a men’s ballgown if I chose it to be. So, I empower you to take that same energy and make a wardrobe that makes you burst with happiness every single day!
Julian wearing a long overshirt in a pattern of red and white stripes with blue flowers, over a dark blue tshirt and jeans.
Julian Collins (he, him, his) is the figure behind Julian Creates. By day he works in public health, but his evenings are spent bringing joy to the world through his colorful menswear creations. His work has been featured in multiple publications and he has worked with different companies in the sewing and crafting world. You can see more of his creations on Facebook, Instagram or YouTube under Julian Creates.
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