Spencer: Fabric Types for Undergarments
Light compression binder. Fabrics: outer layer of royal blue double brushed polyester, inner layer of power mesh, lining of black double brushed polyester, and elastic trim
There are a lot of choices for fabric when it comes to making undergarments, which can make it difficult to get started. Particularly if you are ordering your fabric online, it can be hard to know what’s what – and frustrating if you order something and it turns out to be the wrong thing. I’ve put together this guide on fabric choices to help you get started from my own experience making gender-affirming undergarments of all kinds for myself and my friends.
Double Brushed Polyester
Packing boxer briefs. Fabrics: royal blue double brushed polyester with elastic trim
Double brushed polyester or DBP is a four-way stretch polyester knit fabric that is brushed on both sides, giving it a soft feel all over. It’s a popular choice for legging fabric. You may also see references to singled brushed polyester, which is a four-way stretch polyester with only one brushed side. I typically opt for cotton or bamboo-based fabric for making underwear, but DBP can be a good choice for top undergarments. DBP tends to be fairly warm, so it may not be the best choice if you live in a warm climate. However, it can be a great option if you tend to be cold or live in a cooler climate. DBP also tends to be easy to find and relatively inexpensive, so it makes a great option for practice fabric.
Cotton Lycra/Spandex or Cotton Jersey
Full compression binder. Fabrics: outer layer cotton lycra, inner layer of power net, elastic trim, and underarm hook and eye closure
Cotton Lycra and cotton jersey are both four-way stretch cotton knits. Lycra is a brand of spandex, so sometimes you’ll see this listed as cotton Lycra and sometimes as cotton spandex. Both are great for a wide variety of undergarments, including underwear. Cotton Lycra tends to be a bit stiffer and a bit less crawly under a presser foot than cotton jersey. You may also see cotton modal spandex, which is typically between cotton spandex and cotton jersey in drape.
Cotton Lycra or cotton jersey usually come in a variety of weights from light to heavy. If you’re making undergarments with a power net layer (see below), I’d recommend at least a medium weight fabric. Both cotton Lycra and cotton jersey tend to come in a wide variety of colors (and prints!), so if you’re trying to match your skin tone or find the perfect print, you’ll probably have the best luck with one of these fabrics. I use cotton Lycra and cotton jersey for making all kinds of underwear as well as binders and bras.
Bamboo Lycra/Spandex
Bamboo Lycra is four-way stretch knit made of bamboo and spandex. This fabric is great for a wide variety of undergarments, including underwear. Bamboo spandex is typically very soft and lightweight. Similar to cotton spandex, if you’re planning to make undergarments with a power net layer, opt for at least a medium weight fabric. Not all fabric stores or sites carry bamboo spandex, but the number is increasing.
Polyester Lycra/Spandex or Athletic Knit
Full compression binder. Fabrics: outer layer of polyester spandex, inner layer of power net, lining layer of cotton lycra, elastic trim, and underarm hook and eye closure
Polyester spandex, also sometimes called athletic knit, is a four-way stretch polyester spandex knit. These fabrics tend to wick sweat well, so they make a great choice for any undergarments you plan to wear while exercising. These fabrics tend to come in a decent range of colors, but typically have limited skin tone colors. These fabrics can occasionally be a bit scratchy feeling. I use polyester spandex for light compression binders that I wear while exercising.
Nylon Lycra/Spandex
Nylon spandex a four-way stretch nylon and spandex knit. This fabric is usually the outer material on most ready-to-wear binders. These fabrics wick sweat well, so they’re great for workout wear. Nylon spandex can occasionally be a bit scratchy feeling, so if you are particularly sensitive to uncomfortable fabrics, a cotton spandex blend might be a better choice. I personally find nylon spandex to be too scratchy, so this is not a fabric I use for myself. Nylon spandex tends to have a limited color assortment. Many sites do not offer nylon spandex in prints, but some stores aimed at dancewear do.
Power Net/Mesh
Tucking panties. Fabrics: Outer layer of cotton spandex, inner layer of power net, lining layer of cotton spandex, elastic trim
If you’re looking to make binders, gaffs, or other shapewear, you’ll need power net. Power net is made of nylon and spandex and should have minimal stretch in both directions, typically 30% or less. Power net can be a bit difficult to shop for. Most in-person fabric stores won’t carry it. When you’re shopping, make sure the website specifies net and not mesh. Some fabric websites will categorize these as the same thing, but they’re not. Power mesh has much more stretch than power net and won’t compress nearly as much. Power net is often used in dancewear and bra making, so sites that cater towards these audiences typically carry it. If a site offers a “heavyweight” option, go for that one.
If you’re looking to make something with less compression, power mesh is exactly what you want. It’s great for lining athletic wear or shapewear with light compression. You may also see this listed as stretch net. Either are great for garments with less compression. Power mesh or stretch mesh tend to be lighter weight than power net.
Sewing my own undergarments is what prompted me to reconnect with a childhood hobby and remake it for myself as a queer and trans adult. I found commercial options lacking in many cases and wanted to make custom things for myself. I’ve since discovered I love it! It’s a rare day I’m not wearing me-made undergarments and I love the ability to make custom gender affirming garments for friends and family.
I hope you’ve found this guide helpful, and that you too discover a love of making your own underwear.
Spencer (they/them) is @spencer_sews on instagram. Spencer is a queer trans person with a love for all things fabric and sewing. When not sewing, they can be found hanging out with their partner and their dog.
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